R-38 Cellulose attic insulation

Cellulose is made from recycled newspaper with boric acid added as a pest and flame retardant. Though it costs the same as blown fiberglass, it is better suited for attic insulation. Its higher density prevents convection even at extreme temperatures, while blown fiberglass loses up to 50% of its R-value when outdoor temperatures drop lower than 15 degrees. Cellulose is also good for the environment since less energy is required to produce it and it uses more recycled material. Check this link for more details.

Boxing on all knee walls

Knee walls are the walls between finished space and attic space. Most energy codes suggest using even more insulation on knee walls than on exterior walls. The reason is that attic temperatures can exceed 130 degrees in summer. However, builders commonly do the opposite by leaving these walls completely unboxed. Batt insulation is designed to be placed in an enclosed cavity. Leaving it exposed on one side can reduce its effective R-value by up to 70% and is not in accordance with manufacturer specifications. Other areas where batt cavities are commonly left unsealed are behind tubs and fireplaces.

Caulk, foam and seal to reduce air infiltration

Probably the largest culprit of energy loss in a home is simply air infiltration around doors, windows, holes drilled for wire or pipes, etc. These areas are meticulously foamed, caulked and sealed. Ezell-Morgan also uses several framing techniques that improve insulation and reduce infiltration.

R-13 fiberglass batts on all exterior frame walls

While not well suited for attic insulation fiberglass batts are an excellent and cost effective performer when properly installed in an enclosed cavity. Wet-blown cellulose or fiberglass BIB systems are better at reducing infiltration and conforming to the cavity, but they also cost twice as much. Since, infiltration through exterior wall cavities makes up only a small percentage of the total infiltration of the structure, batts are often the most cost effective choice.

R-9 polyisocyanurate on top four feet of all unfinished concrete walls

One of the most cost effective ways to improve the efficiency of the average home is to insulate unfinished concrete walls. In fact, there is no energy efficiency code standard that does not suggest, if not prescribe, this feature. This is because concrete has almost no measurable insulating value and normally the top foot of wall is exposed directly to outside air. The wall should be insulated to at least 3 feet below grade where the soil temperature stays about 45 to 55 degrees in this climate zone. Polyisocyanurate must be used because of its fire rating. Covering only the top half of the wall also allows the concrete to dry to the inside if it becomes damp from small imperfections in the damp-proofing and potential moisture diffusion through the spread footing at the base of the wall.

R-19 blown cellulose around attic trunk line

Duct work located in an unfinished space should be insulated as much as possible. Supply air is blown through the duct at high velocity maximizing heat transfer with the walls of the duct. In summer, conditioned air is 50 degrees and attic air can be 130 degrees. In winter supply air is 130 degrees. This combination of large temperature differentials and fast moving air means the duct walls must be well insulated, or this can cause a large energy loss.

Standard construction method is to use R-4.4 duct wrap around the duct or even worse, duct that is insulated with fiberglass on the inside. A better and less expensive way is to simply build a trough around it. This is then filled with blown cellulose for about R-19. The insulated ducts connected to the trunk are then buried as well as possible.

93 AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency) furnace and 13 SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) air conditioner

The extra cost to upgrade to this high efficiency equipment is often offset by the savings of being able to install smaller units when using multiple zones. Even if no size adjustment is made, the extra efficiency of these units will pay for themselves in about 3 years. Another important feature of the furnace is that it is direct-vent. This means that combustion and exhaust gases never mix with indoor air, thereby improving indoor air quality.

Computer controlled multi-zone heating and cooling system

Ezell-Morgan uses a computer controlled zoning system from Innovative Residential Controls to divide the home into 2 or 3 separate zones in all their two-stories and in larger ranchers. A programmable thermostat placed in each zone sends signals to the controller that intelligently operates duct dampers, the fan, the furnace and the air conditioner to direct airflow where it is needed most. Without zoning, the temperature difference between upstairs and down may be 7-10 degrees. The zoning system reduces this to 1-3 degrees. Zoning also allows the use of smaller heating and cooling equipment which further increases efficiency.

Low-E/Argon-filled glass in windows

Low-E/Argon-filled glass offers an excellent and cost-effective way to improve the performance of windows. The Low-E refers to the low-emissivity coating on the inside of the outer pane that reduces radiant heat transfer by about 50%. The space between the panes is filled with argon gas, an inert gas that increases R-value and reduces sound transmission. The average double-pane window is about R-2, while the LoE/Argon window is about R-3.

Plastic vapor barrier under concrete floors in finished spaces

As homes become tighter, indoor air quality is more of a concern. Ezell-Morgan always uses a plastic vapor barrier that greatly reduces the amount of moisture that finds its way into the basement. This moisture can also breakdown the adhesives used on floor covering and rot padding and the backing on carpet. It is also largely responsible for making a basement smell musty from mold and mildew. Moisture moves through unprotected concrete floors because of a process called diffusion. Visit this link for more information.

Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs (CFLs) in 90% of all fixtures

The bulbs we use less that 1/4 the electricity and last 10 times longer than standard incandescent bulbs. A standard 60W-750 hour incandescent bulb is replaced with a 14W-10,000 hour CFL. They will save $35-$45 over the life of each bulb. They are also highly resistant to vibration, which makes them ideal for exterior fixtures and garage door openers. Ezell-Morgan now uses these bulbs in over 90% of the fixtures in their homes.